I have done Upper Mustang Trek many times as a guide and porter. This is the first time I am doing 10 days Upper Mustang Trek during the summer season with two young boys from the Netherlands. As everyone knows this trek is one of the best summer treks in Nepal. Therefore doing this trek in summer season is not the problem at all. The main problem to do mustang trek during summer season is the transportation. Unfortunately, this time there was no flight since last time Tara Air Crashed in Lete Mustang.
And most of the trekkers who wants to do trekking in Nepal during rainy season, their choice will be the Upper Mustang. Because this region is on the shadow of the two world’s highest peaks Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. And very few rain in the upper part of the Mustang so we called the Upper Mustang is the desert of Nepal. However, this dry land during the summer season will be little green because the little plants will gets their leaves. And domestic animals will go higher parts to gages because of the warm weather.
The standard upper mustang trekking permit will be for 10 days and it cost $500 per person. And the biggest problem is that, issue this trekking permit needs minimum two trekkers. Most of the trekkers will do 10 days Upper Mustang Trek, but some trekkers will add 2/4 days to explore whole Upper Mustang region. Before count the 10 days every traveler must go through Pokhara, Jomsom and spend night at Kagbeni. We did the same one night at Pokhara and other night at Kagbeni.
1 Day Upper Mustang Trek – Kagbeni to Chaile
2 Day Upper Mustang Trek – Chaile to Syangbochen
3 Day Upper Mustang Trek – Syangbochen to Tsarang
4th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Tsarang to Lomanthang
5th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Lomanthnag to Chhoser Village and back to Lomanthang
6th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Lomanthag to Dhakmar
7th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Dhakmar to Syangbochen
8th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Syangboche to Chhusang via Chunsi Cave
9th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Chhusang to Muktinath
10th Day Upper Mustang Trek – Muktinath to Jomsom
Day 1 Upper Mustang Trek Kagbeni to Chaile
We were a bit tried from the long drive from Pokhara to Kagbeni so that we planed to start the trek at 9 am. As our plan we had the breakfast at 8:30 am and started to our hike on time. Walked through the encient Kagbeni Village visited the monastery and then climb up the Mustang Highway. Walking on road is not that fun however, we have to walk and luckily this time not that much jeeps and bus are there.
We took one short break before taking the long tea break at Tangbe. At Tangbe we had a cup of coffee and a coconut biscuit. Stayed around 30 minutes at Tangbe and continue our journey to Chhusang, where we planned to eat Lunch. While we stayed there for lunch we met other fellow trekkers, some of them going up and some of them going down. It was nice to meet fellow guides for me because there is always nice to talk with each other. And asking about places, hotels, walking trails, etc.
After a heavy lunch, we continue to walk to our today’s final destination Chaile. It took us around an hour to reach Chaile and we stayed at the Hotel Mustang Gate. This is the hotel I always used to stay at when I do 10 days Upper Mustang Trek. This is a nice hotel and people from the hotel are very frank and friendly too.
Day 2 Upper Mustang Trek – Chaile to Syangbochen
This time we are a young team doing Upper Mustang Trek for 10 days so we had breakfast at 7:30 AM and started to walk around 8:30 am. In the morning time, the weather was not that good because of the cloudy surroundings but perfect to climb up. Our first stop was at Gyakar village – A small and traditional village along the way to Syangbochen. Climbing up was a bit challenging therefore we took some breaks before reaching Samar.
At Samar, we had a lunch break, while we were waiting there for lunch we met 4 trekkers backing from Syangbochen. Because they are also stopping at the same place for lunch. After lunch, we continue our trip to Syangbochen. Climbing up just after the heavy Dal Bhat was very tough for me, however, I walked together with the two strong boys. We took a couple of breaks before reaching Bhena La.
Spent some time at the top of the Bhena La and enjoy the surrounding views and then walked to Bhena for a cup of hot tea. From Bhena we walked on the road to another pass because there is no shortcut. But from the pass, there was a shortcut way to get down although it was a bit steep down. The advantage of walking with young lads is can easily walk everywhere. So we easily walked down that steep down and soon got down on the road.
And very soon reached Syangbochen, checked in the room, and had a cup of hot coffee. Then ordered dinner, eat dinner and planned for the next day, and went to bed. Overall we had the expanded second day of the 10 days Upper Mustang Trek
Day 3 Upper Mustang Trek – Syangbochen to Tsarang
Our original itinerary was to sleep at Ghami but I changed it to Tsarang because the boys want to explore more Lomanthang. Maybe you think about how that is possible? It’s possible because from Tsarang to Lomanthang is half a day and from Ghami is a full day walk. To go Tsarang from Syangbochen is absolutely a long and heavy day because need to pass two 4000m passes. But for us, it was okay because we are all young boys, and could walk longer days.
As our plan, we commenced our day 3 of the 10 days Upper Mustang Trek to Tsarang Village. Our first stop was at Chhaitre and we had a cup of coffee and a coconut biscuit before passing the first pass. It was a very hot day because that day there was very sunny but we easily got on top. Spent some time on top and took some photos before down to Ghami. The long down trail was not fun but now there is a walking trail so it was nicer than walking on the road.
After lunch we walk down to river before climb up to the top via the longest Mani wall. When we reached on the pass it was already 4:15 PM. We took short break and while taking break we played to hit the pole by stone and the big boy Alroy was the champion. He hit the pope four times. Then we continue to walk down our journey to Tsarang and at 5:15 PM we reached Tsarang. It was kind of longest day and we talked around 22KM.
Day 4 Upper Mustang Trek – Tsarang to Lomanthang
Today was just the lunch camp, we had the breakfast as usual at 7:30 AM and then start to walk around 8:30 AM. First we visited the monastery and royal palace of Tsarang; it was delightful to visit those historical places. Then follow the trail to Lomanthang, first part was on trekking trail and after some time reached on road. When we reached on the road our step transfer into the silence because we just focused on walk.
The silence continue for next one and half hour, during this period boys are listening music and myself just walking in the front. Then we took a long break, drank water and ate some snacks as well as we did PipPip. We knew that we have to get in our final destination Lomanthang as soon as possible. So we again continue to walk and after half an hour we reached the pass, from where we show the Lomanthang.
Took some photos on top and there was a bit cold because of the heavy wind. And next half and hour we entered in Lomanthang. We have to make a circul to the whole village because the hotel I used to stayed was closed. Finally, we stepped in a hotel called Hotel Lotes Inn, took shower and eat lunch. In the evening time we explored the Lomanthnag village and attend the daily evening prayers in a monastery.
Day 5 Upper Mustang Trek – Visit Chhoser Village
Today was kind of rest day of the trip because we do not have to carry our bag pack. We ate breakfast as our plan and start our journey to Chhoser Village at 8:30 AM. While we are walking we talked about the how to became a successful in our sector and boys give me some very good suggestions. While we were talking and we reached Chhoser village, I felt today’s walking was bit easier and shorter.
Then we bought entry ticket for Jhong Cave and other places to visit on Chhoser Village. But we only explore the Jhong Cave and a monastery because boys are not that much interested. Eat lunch in a hotel and then back to Lomanthang on the other side of the river, which is the road to Tibet border. While waking to Lomanthang we stepped in a school where is going a football match.
We enjoyed the match for some time and then again continue to walk to Lomanthang. It took one and half hours us to get back in Lomanthang. Be freshed and walked around the village again to enjoy the beauty of the walled city Lomanthang. Overall the 5th day of the Upper Mustang Trek during the summer season was well worth.
Day 6 Upper Mustang Trek – Lomanthang to Ghami
As our plan to walk to Dhakmar via the highest pass (Choku La 4298m) of the Upper Mustang Trek; we started to walk little bit early then other time. The walking trail was gradually up and we followed the trail to pass and near by the pass we changed a bit and walk to Yak Kharka. Yak Kharka is the place where we can see yaks and luckily we show many Yaks. We spent some time there with Yaks taking some photos and videos of Yaks and ourselves too. Then we track down the normal path to the Ghar Gumba.
After some time we reached the top and took some photos and videos. Because of the cold weather, we didn’t stay more on the pass. Then walk down to Ghar Gumba because we planned to stop there for lunch. It took us around one and half hours to reach Ghar Gumba. We ate egg soup, Alu paratha, and vegetable momos. Unfortunately, the monastery was closed and we are unable to explore inside the monastery.
Then we started our journey to Dhakmar, from Ghar Gumba it was a bit climb up. Just after lunch, it was a bit tough but for the young people, it was not that hard climb for us. From the top, we descend to the Dhakmar and it took us around 45 minutes. We planned to have a cup of tea there but that wasn’t possible because the tea houses are closed. Then we continually walk to the Ghami. It was a bit long day but ultimately we managed to reach there. Even in the evening, we visited a monastery where a puja ceremony was getting on.
Day 7 Upper Mustang Trek – Ghami To Samar
From Ghami as usual we started our walk to Samar after the heavy breakfast. But the problem was that we have to start with a long climb up to pass. We continually walk to the top and we took a couple of breaks before we reached the pass. Took quite a long break on the pass because we show amazing snowy-capped mountain views of the entire trek. Then walk down to Chhaitre and drank a cup of coffee and ate coconut biscuits.
After the tea break, our journey was to get to Syangbochen for Lunch. Walk down to the river before making a long straight up to the top. Again on the top, we took quite a long break before down to Syangboche. At the Syangbochen we ate lunch at the same hotel where we slept while we go up to Lomanthang. Then we walk down to the Chunsi Cave. It took us around half an hour to reach there.
Chunsi Cave is one of the holy places in the Upper Mustang. It’s believed that there is various kind of God and Goddess located. We spent around half an hour there and a monk offered us a cup of black tea and a packet of biscuits. The real hardness of today’s trip to Samar started to climb up a long way. Slowly we climbed up to the top when we reached the top we were all completely exhausted.
But still, we have to go long way to Samar and the trail was mostly down. We changed our pace because we were very tired. From the top, it took us around one and half hours to reach Samar. When we reached there we show other tourists, that was the moment we show quite a big group there. First, we drank a cup of coffee and ate popcorn before ordering dinner and going to the room.
Day 8 Upper Mustang Trek – Samar to Chhusang
Today was our very easy day to walk down, I told the boys we don’t talk before we reach Chaile. Because it’s a silent walk and we don’t talk to each other if anyone talks he has to do a party tonight. The boys used air pots to listen to music and I just walk in without talking. The total silent walk was around 2 hours and in that two hours, we reached Chaile. When we reached there I asked them how it was walking without talking. They said it was a bit fun and a completely different experience.
We had a tea break at Chaile and then walk down to Chhusang for lunch and today’s camp. After 45 minutes we reached Chhusang, ordered lunch, and put our stuff in the room. Ate food and then an easy day for all of us and were free to walk on our own. So boys went to the other side of the river and I made videos of the Chhusang Village. Overall today was a very easy day for us before climbing to Muktinath.
Day 9 Upper Mustang Trek – Chhusang to Muktinath
There were no lunch and tea places before reaching the holy land Muktinath Ranipawa. So that we had quite a heavy breakfast we started today’s journey to Muktinath. Firstly we followed the road to Tetang, Tetang is also one of the beautiful villages in the Upper Mustang. From Tetang the way started to climb up, while climbing up I found a couple of fossils. Today I was struggling to climb up I didn’t know why so that I took breaks multiple times than usual.
We took with us some pears from Chhusang we ate that and unfortunately, my water was finished while climbing up. And there was very difficult to refill the water and luckily I found a shepherd and asked him where I can fill the bottle and drink water. And he showed me the place and I refill my water bottle and drink water there. After that, I got quite a good energy to climb up, till then boys are on the top and waiting for me.
It took me around 45 minutes to reach on top and after that, we took quite a long break on the top. Because from the top, we enjoyed the amazing 360-degree angle view including the way down of the Annapurna Circuit Trek. After some time we descend to Muktinath and it took us one and half hours to reach Ranipawa. Before going to the room we ordered lunch and then went to the room to be fresh. After a good shower, we back to the dining hall for food. And after the food, we enjoyed a football game and then visited the Muktinath Temple.
Day 10 Upper Mustang Trek – Muktinath to Jomsom via Kagbeni
Today was our last day of the 10 days Upper Mustang Trek so we planned to start to walk a bit earlier. But before starting to walk I woke up early in the morning and I visited Muktinath Temple and make a video for my Youtube Channel Travel With Raby. After breakfast, we descend to Kagbeni via Jharkot and Kinga village and sometimes we need to walk on the blacktop road. That was very irritating and unpleasant to walk.
It took us 3 hours to reach Kagbeni, we went to Hotel Yac Donalds for lunch because it’s quite a popular place in Kagbeni. While waiting for lunch I try to check out the special permit but the man was not there. So I back to the hotel for lunch and unfortunately, having lunch also took quite a long time because they have to prepare everything. After lunch, we went to the ACAP office to exit the special permit, and again that man was not there. I called that man and he came after some time and it didn’t take a long time to exit our permit.
Then our journey started to Jomsom in the windy Kaligandaki valley. The bad things to walk from Kagbeni to Jomsom are the road and the wind. But we didn’t have a choice so we used our sunglass and buff to protect ourselves from dust. First, we reached Yakle Bhatti and then continued the trip to Jomsom. Along the way we didn’t met anyone walking the same way to Jomsom. And it took us 3 hours to reach Jomsom and checked in at the Himalayan Bakery Hotel. It was my first time staying in this hotel and I found it quite a good hotel in Jomsom. Overall we had an easy and a good last day of the Upper Mustang Trek.
These 10 days of Upper Mustang Trek were during the summer season. And there was no flight from Pokhara – Jomsom – Pokhara after the accident of the Tara Air. So that we took the Jeep from Pokhara to Jomsom and back to Pokhara as well. 10 days inside the Upper Mustang was a very fantastic experience, very quiet and less tourist except for a couple of days we were the only people in the guest house and along the way as well. And the views were exceptional but we didn’t see good snow-capped mountain peaks that properly. However, the greenery and landscapes of the Mustang was outstanding.